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Ripping vinyl, a mini tutorial..

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Joined: 23 May 2007
Posts: 44

PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:38 pm    Post subject: Ripping vinyl, a mini tutorial.. Reply with quote

As I mentioned in in some of my posts in the General forum, I'm ripping an extensive vinyl lp collection to digital media. I've learned a lot during the process and since I've seen at least one other post here that mentioned ripping vinyl I thought I would share a little of what I've learned.

First thing, *don't* put your turntable on the computer desk on which you work. You can damn near hear every keystroke and mouse click in the finished product. If you set a drink cup down a bit too hard it sounds like an earthquake by the time you enhance the bass and play the WAV file back over a good sound system, or, Allah forbid, quality headphones.

Second, clean your records before you try to rip them. A lot of the skipping is apparently due to large (in relation to the record groove) pieces of trash in the groove, this makes the needle jump out of the groove, causing either a skip or a loud pop and a jump of a groove or two.

Ivory dishwashing liquid works well for me, along with a soft polyester fiber painter's brush which I move parallel to the grooves in a sort of scraping motion, trying to dislodge the crap in the grooves. I use regular tap water for the washing and then a final rinse with distilled water which I get at the grocery store. If your tap water is really "hard" you may wish to use distilled water for the whole process but I haven't found it necessary.

A decent turntable, cartridge and stylus make a big difference. My setup is a Sanyo direct drive, linear tracking turntable from the early eighties. My cartridge is an Audio Technica middle of the line product and I have a microline stylus. The microline stylus seems to make a difference since it appears that it rides in a slightly different portion of the groove than a regular stylus and thus is contacting a portion of the groove which is less worn. They even make special 3 mil styli for playing 78 rpm records which have a substantially larger groove than an lp, you can get those styli on ebay for a surprisingly decent price.

I haven't found that the preamp makes that much difference as long as the one you use is low noise and low hum. Most preamps don't distort much and the distortion in the record overwhelms anything in the preamp.

A good soundcard is a necessity, the on board soundcard is not good enough to do a really quality job. My soundcard is a Turtle Beach "Santa Cruz" which I picked up on ebay for less than twenty dollars shipped. It's a very good soundcard but it doesn't have the latest bells and whistles so everyone avoids them.

I'm getting great results sampling at 44.1 kHz and don't see any reason to go to a higher sampling rate. If it's good enough for CDs it's good enough for me.

Next we come to software and the actual recoding process itself.

After trying more than a few different softwares I've come to a combination that does a good job for me.

For the recording process I like Wave Repair, it's a shareware/freeware that has nice features for recording. First, it has a nice big display of the elapsed time of the recording, next it has a preview function to allow you to set recording levels before you actually start recording. Wave Repair also has peak holding meters which hold the highest peak level of your signal until you reset them. Very nice and handy. Finally Wave Repair has nice big sliders for setting the recording level, they also move smoothly rather than in discrete jumps as some softwares do. As long as you do not use the editing functions within Wave Repair, it remains freeware, if you wish to use the editing functions then you should pay the quite reasonable shareware fee.

http://www.delback.co.uk/wavrep /

I leave *at least* six dBs of headroom when recording, if you have a decent soundcard the noise level is low enough that the vinyl noise will overwhelm it even when recording at ten dB or more below the clipping level. Clipping in digital recording is much more detrimental to the sound quality than it is when recording on tape like with cassettes. Since I recorded many, many cassettes in my time it took me quite a few ruined recordings to get over the habit of pushing the recording levels as high as I could.

After recording comes the editing process, for this I like either Wavosaur or Audacity, both are freeware and work well but have somewhat different feature sets. Which one you use will be a matter of taste and familiarity. You can cut off the leading and trailing portions of the recording, splice together album sides or whatever other editing task you might desire with either of these very capable programs.


-http://audacity.sourceforge.net/download /

An important step in ripping vinyl is click and pop repair and for this one software stands out above all the rest. You'll have to spend a little money this time, something I don't much like to do but in this case it is well worth the investment. A software called Click Repair does a really excellent job of removing clicks, crackled and pops. Click Repair uses wavelet analysis, something about which I know even less than I do about quantum mechanics, but I do know it works very well. On anything other than a horribly noisy lp, Click Repair works at a pace at least four or five times "real time" even on my aged and lethargic Celeron box.

-http://www.macmusic.org/software/version.php/lang/en/id... /

Finally the process comes down to the digital signal processing and encoding portions of the recording. For this I use WinAmp, another freeware, and a couple of freeware plugins for WinAmp. The first plugin I use is called simply Enhancer, and it does an incredible job of making your recordings come alive with bass, treble and a "forward" sound. Enhancer has quite a few different settings, all of which can either markedly or subtly massage the sound depending on how much of each effect you use.

http://www.winamp.com/player /


The second freeware plugin I use with WinAmp is the mp3 encoder output plugin, this is called Chun-Yu's MP3 writer plugin version 3.0. Lots of settings for mp3s, variable bitrate etc..


This setup runs at two to four times real time speed on my box so the actual ripping is the most time consuming part of the entire process.

I hope that this little mini-tutorial might help someone interested in ripping their vinyl. May you enjoy the process as much as I have been.
The first principle is that you must not fool yourself, and you are the easiest person to fool. -Richard Feynman-
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Joined: 23 May 2007
Posts: 44

PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, you made my post a sticky..

I'm truly flattered. Thank you so much.

I just hope it helps someone else out a bit..

I do have another point or two to make that I have figured out since my original post here..

First, noise removal is an important part of ripping vinyl, you are trying to get rid of hiss and hum from the electronics and the turntable and you are trying to get rid of record groove noise other than clicks and pops.

I have found that the program I recommended for the recording phase of the process, Wave Repair, also does about the best job of noise removal of any software I have tried..

Wave Repair requires a portion of the record groove which has no signal in order to take a "noise fingerprint" of the record groove noise, so leave plenty of inlead and outlead on your recording. In other words start your recording before you cue the turntable and end the recording after you pick the stylus up off the record.

It is best to do the noise removal after the click and pop removal, so you will have to record with Wave Repair, save the resulting file, remove the impulse noise with Click Repair and then load the resulting clickless file back into Wave Repair for denoising.

Don't try to take out every last bit of noise, I have found this will adversely effect the sound quality of the resulting file and make it sound hollow or metallic in the quieter passages. Use Wave Repair's noise reduction in one of the lower settings rather than the higher settings and you will be very pleased with the results.

Wave Repair's noise reduction is also part of the freeware portion of its functionality so don't worry about having to spend more money to get noise reduction.

The noise reduction in Wave Repair is on the slow side because there is a lot of DSP (digital signal processing) going on. It probably runs somewhere around "real time" speed on my box, if you have a more modern and faster computer then you will get faster results. Dual core processors are particularly suited to multithreaded processing like DSP so if you are choosing a computer, look toward something like a Pentium D or other dual core machine.

Another point I would like to make is to leave the computer alone during the recording process itself, doing too much at the same time will lead to skips and gaps in the recording while the processor is off doing something other than recording.

All the DSP portions of the process are not in real time, so you can do pretty much what you want on your box while the DSP runs in the background.

Now on to the results of all our labors..

Quite a few of my records came from yard sales, flea markets and thrift stores for anything from a quarter to two or three dollars for a record I really wanted. This means that a lot of my records are not in very good shape.

I took the noisiest record I have, an album by a band called "Cactus" titled "One Way Or Another". This record sounded like someone was popping popcorn and frying bacon at the same time in the background of the music.

After undergoing the process I have outlined in this mini tutorial, this unlistenable album was approaching CD quality sound. Over headphones with the volume turned up a bit I could tell it wasn't a CD and most of you reading this could tell too. But I guarantee that the average listener who is not knowledgeable about sound techniques and careful listening would swear it was a CD.

There was a fair bit of distortion in the raw signal from this record, the vocals sounded harsh and gritty, particularly on the surprising number of relatively quiet vocal passages for a rock album.

Somewhere in the processing, a lot of the distortion got lost. I suspect that it was in Click Repair using a fair amount of "crackle reduction" mode in addition to "click reduction mode" but I'm not positive at this time.

That's it for now, if I make any other discoveries while I'm ripping my collection I'll be sure to drop back by and let you know.

In the meanwhile, have a great day and take care.

Best Regards,

The first principle is that you must not fool yourself, and you are the easiest person to fool. -Richard Feynman-
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just put together a website dedicated to vinyl ripping.

If anyone would like to check it out, here is the link:


The site is nowhere near finished yet, but I have got a decent start.

There is a message board, a chat client, picture album, etc..
The first principle is that you must not fool yourself, and you are the easiest person to fool. -Richard Feynman-
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anyone has any questions, I have an email account now specifically for vinyl ripping:


I'll be happy to help anyone who asks.


The first principle is that you must not fool yourself, and you are the easiest person to fool. -Richard Feynman-
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Joined: 11 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bump Very Happy
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